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Thanks @northerndragons! I'll be sure to give it a try. 

13 hours ago, Wolfgang Jannesen said:

That directorate scheme is growing on me over the  official examples of very flashy sci-fi paint schemes.

Thanks! I really couldn't see the Directorate having as wild a paint scheme as my Terrans. I guess you could say I am going for a Corporate Villainy look.

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2 hours ago, TableTopTerror said:

Those directorate ships are nice what airbrush do you use? 


1 hour ago, Wolfgang Jannesen said:

@Hive I'm curious about the same thing. Beautiful choice of colours

It's a Badger 105 Patriot with the needle and nozzle swapped for the next size down. I run it off of a little compressor... I think by Pasche? It's not the most precise thing, but at least until I get way better I've stopped bothering with anything finer, the amount of cleaning I seem to have to do for my SOTAR isn't worth the extra precision, tbh.


My process is super easy- I prime Vallejo white with the airbrush, then basecoat with a steel color from Vallejo. Then I wash the plates with a watered down Citadel Nuln Oil by brush and go back to the airbrush to tint it all with Badger Minitaire Ghost Tint Plasma Fluid- Once upon a time I bought the entire Minitaire collection, and the Ghost Tints are the only part I still use. All the other colors in the collection are super inconsistent in texture, so I use Vallejo Model Air and Game Color for everything else. Anyways, rant over. I seal the color at this point with a matte varnish, and tape off the nose for two layers of red, one darker one lighter, don't remember them offhand.  I drybrush all the metallic with the original steel color. Then I  paint in all the recesses with Dark Seagreen which is really more of a grey with a very slight greenish tint. Drybrush with Vallejo Light Gray, wash with Nuln Oil. The glows are done with Vallejo Magenta and then, of all things, a quick hit of 50/50 Golden Flourescent Pink mixed with Vallejo White Grey. I could belt these guys out in an afternoon, if I could ignore the drying time on the primer/washes.

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10 hours ago, TableTopTerror said:

I have an iwata hp-cs thats why i asked. Whats the needle size .3 or .35?

I'll have to double check that for you, haha. Been a while since I swapped the needle over. Looks like its a .35- Badger needle sizes don't seem to be too well documented, but I know the standard is a .5 and I went down in size with a Badger-made needle, right now the only smaller needle I can see made by them for the 105 is .35, so that's likely it.

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Okay time for more pictures! Obviously I got distracted and forgot the frigates. My brand truly is the loudest. As you'll see, I got the underplating of the Battlecruisers too! Also pictures is my Cheyga painting assistant, Captain Fwiffo, who helps me untie my shoes every morning when I get home from work at the bakery, starting a morning of painting off right.








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On 6/9/2018 at 11:58 AM, Wolfgang Jannesen said:

@Hive Stunning work, only gets better as you add more ships. Hell of an assisstant too :lol:

I'm pleased that you like them/him. My next set should take a while, given it is 20 smalls and 7 mediums.

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Beautiful work on the glows! Whole fleet looks incredible!

I've finished a Ryushi Battlecarrier but with the terrible sin of fingerprints on the clear plastic bits. I've tried all sorts of surface cleaners on qtips but no luck. Im worried they're glue. It also came with no radar array. I'll post pictures with the accompanying cruisers and tokens soon but man, bummed about the final result when all the resin turned out so good.

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If they are glue, you can try chipping them off, and depending on the glue, there may be a specific way to break it down (I usually use epoxy, and alcohol can strip it)

But if all else fails, take whatever glue you used fill in the gaps, even out the layer, and buff it back down a little, and a claer coat can help mitigate the details and ridges too :)

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