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6 hours ago, Polaris said:

If they are glue, you can try chipping them off, and depending on the glue, there may be a specific way to break it down (I usually use epoxy, and alcohol can strip it)

But if all else fails, take whatever glue you used fill in the gaps, even out the layer, and buff it back down a little, and a claer coat can help mitigate the details and ridges too :)

Oh no, these are on the inside. There's no reaching them but with a bent qtip

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What kind of glue did you use? 


If its just fingerprints, Isopropyl and a lint free cloth should do wonders. I'd make sure in the future to clean the downward side, let it dry (since the iso can hurt your paint), glue in place, and then very carefully clean the upward surface. I'm assuming since you said they didn't smear or anything that its not just fingerprints, but as a PSA for anyone else doing Ryushi or painting flight stands, get thyself a bottle of 70 or 90% Isopropyl and save yourself a lot of fingerprint-based trouble.

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3 minutes ago, Wolfgang Jannesen said:

Ive been using cyanoacrylate adhesive gap filling. I didnt try it with isopropyl but I should be able to pick some up on my way home from work and give it a shot. Thank you for the suggestions! 

So as a reccomendation for future reference, and this is a suggestion from the pits of the past when 40k players were first handed Glowy Green Rod sprues for their robot skeletors, you should get a bottle of PVA for any time you do anything transparent/translucent. Cyanoacrylate glues have all sorts of potential problems with transparent parts, not the least of which is a tendency to fog if the humidity is off. Its still the best stuff for anything else, since you'll be painting over anything else or else it'll be in a gap and won't show, but yeah clear parts you'll want something else. The Isoprop might do the trick in weakening the glue, but I'm not absolutely certain it will work in this case.

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