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  1. The waters of the Dystopian Age are coming alive once more with the upcoming release of a battlefleet set from an exciting new nation to Dystopian Wars, the Japanese! The Kongo Battlefleet Set will launch this January. Nikolai Tesla has been hard at work and January sees his hard work pay off with the release of the UR-31E Teslabots, your first chance to acquire these heavily-armed automata for Wild West Exodus outside of the Showdown at Retribution Two Player Starter Set. Last up is the Augusta range from Warcradle Scenics, which sees the Augusta Industrial Set, released in August 2021 now in individual terrain sets, allowing you to add even more to your wargames set in the grim setting of Augusta. Make sure you don’t miss out on all these exciting new releases available to pre-order from December 31st 2021. Due to be released at the end of January 2022. Dystopian Wars This month introduces a brand new nation to Dystopian Wars with the release of the Kongo Battlefleet Set. The Empire will be sure to take advantage of these new Japanese ships that pack a significant punch. Kongo Battlefleet Set The Japanese enter the fray for the first time and are ready to fight for The Empire with the upcoming release of the Kongo Battlefleet Set. Of all the Battleships upon the seas in the last 50 years the Britannia Class of the Crown has been considered the heaviest. That is until the Empire launched the Kongo Class Heavy Battleship. One of the deadliest warships to ply the seas of the Dystopian Age, the Kongo is crewed by some of the finest sailors in all of Japan. The design of this behemoth was always aimed at making it as armoured as possible while still retaining speed and manoeuvrability as much as the best Japanese naval engineers could manage. Wild West Exodus Can you hear that? The mechanical marching of the UR-31E Teslabots is almost deafening as Nikolai Tesla’s inventions come to life once more for Wild West Exodus. UR-31E Teslabots Nikolai Tesla is not a man to stand still. He is forever moving forward, tinkering with his designs and dreaming up new and ever more challenging projects. The UR-31 E is one such progression from the UR-31 Automata, a design that became ubiquitous to replace lost manpower after the Ore War. These so-called ‘Teslabots’ are hard wired with either ranged offensive instructions or more defensive, close order ones depending on their equipment loadout. Warcradle Scenics As night envelopes the industrial district of Augusta, the ne'er do wells come out in full force. Back from Warcradle Scenics is the Augusta Industrial range of terrain sets, now available to purchase individually. Bring the town of Augusta to life in Wild West Exodus, Warhammer 40k, Infinity, and more! Augusta Industrial Range On the edge of town sits the industrial district of Augusta. This collection of small factories, warehouses, and depots are busy by day and all but abandoned by night. When the sun goes down the dark alleyways and abandoned lots are rife with illicit activity, squatters, and criminal elements. But it doesn’t end there, things move in the shadows, shapes flow just out of the corner of your eye and if you stand very still you can hear a slow rhythmic thrumming of a vast machine beneath your feet. So this month is packed full of exciting upcoming releases with a new nation for Dystopian Wars, a set of standalone UR-31E Teslabots as seen in Showdown at Retribution for Wild West Exodus, and a range of industrial scenics from Warcradle Scenics. Make sure you don’t miss out when they go on pre-order December 31st 2021 from your FLGS or Wayland Games online. As always, be sure to keep up to date with Warcradle Studios’ socials, including Facebook, Instagram, and Twitter for new releases and more. View the full article
  2. Warcradle Studios is proud to announce that Red Beam Designs has been relaunched with a brand new website! You can now find assembly guides online for the current ranges by Red Beam Designs, including Dark Assembly terrain, and see which games systems each piece is suitable for. Not only this, but you’ll be able to see previews for upcoming terrain and scenery via the new website in the future, as well as any product teaser we share for Red Beam Designs ranges before they become available. Why not go and take a look around! https://www.redbeamdesigns.com/
  3. There seems to be lot's of confusion and questions about the scale of Dystopian Wars, hopefully this will clear it up. Disclaimer: There are averages and approximations all throughout this article but nothing that has been rounded in such a way to make any appreciable difference so please, for all that is holy, don’t nitpick. Also, I use a lot of Woodland Scenic products, they work well but can be a bit expensive. You can find similar products from other places but I will be referencing them a lot, and no I don’t work for them or get any commissions. But you can check out their products here: http://woodlandsceni...s.com/index.cfm What scale is Dystopian Wars? Answer, 1:1200 from Spartan Games themselves. So what is 1:1200 scale anyway? 1:1200 scale means, 1 inch = 100 feet. Breaking that down, there are about 25 millimeters in one inch and if you divide the 25 mm by the 100 feet you get 1mm = 4 feet. So are the DW figs actually 1:1200 scale or are they closer to some other scale? Yes DW figs are 1:1200 scale. Measure them. Spartan Games did a very good job on the scale of their figs and have kept it consistent. Measure a hatch on a ship model, give or take they are about 1mm wide by 1.5mm tall which makes them 4 feet by 6 feet i.e. the size of a regular door. If you look at the wingspan of the bombers yeah they are a bit large, but they are about the size of a modern jet bomber. The Prussian bomber has a 57 mm which is about 228 feet and about the same size of a Lockheed C-5 Galaxy. But wait a minute, why would DW bombers be so big? And I also measured some of the guns on the ships and they are 1mm plus in size, that’s 4 plus feet, that’s huge what gives? That’s the point my friends. Spartan Games chose 1:1200 scale because it allows for epically huge machines of war that wage battle scale on an grand scale scale. BTW that’s not my opinion that was Spartan Games thinking from the start. I’ve only paraphrased a post from Spartan off the first forum. So what does this mean to you and your terrain building? First you need to decide if you want to do things to scale or if you just ‘want to be close’. Regardless of which you choose I offer this advice. First building terrain should be fun, don’t worry if your first pieces are not as good as you would like. If you keep at it you will get better just like anything else. Second decide if you want to be accurate (i.e. to scale) or not (i.e. looks about right) and then stick with it. If you don’t, and you switch back and forth your stuff will never look right together in any sense of the word. So which should I choose? That’s up to you, do what you want, it’s your terrain. So here is some advice and how-to’s for common terrain items in 1:1200 scale. Ground: You only really have 1 of 2 choices here. You can either paint ground (I’ve use a sponge technique that works well) or you need to find the finest flock that you can get your hands on. Woodland Scenic makes some fine flock that works. One thing to remember about flock is that you should mix different colors together before you apply them to avoid the ‘golf course’ effect, (i.e. everything looks the same). Static grass and anything above a fine grade flock are too large, but medium grade flock could be used for tall bushes. Trees: The easiest way I have found to make trees is to use clump foliage from Woodland Scenic. If you break them into smaller pieces and mix the colors you can get a good effect. I went the extra bit and actually made trunks and lifted them off the ground a bit. Straight pins work well for they, as they are a bit less than 1mm in diameter (which is a 4 foot diameter, so it’s a bit big for an average tree trunk, but the closest easiest material that works). Tree Tutorial: Build a jig using ¼” basswood and screen (like from a screen door) for the base, the screen is a key point because you don’t actually want the clump foliage to stick to it. Mix up some different colors and size of clump foliage and pack tightly into jig, then soak the clump foliage with Woodland Scenic, Scenic Cement (It’s basically watered down PVA, but regular PVA dries with a shine to it, the Scenic Cement dries flat). Let dry COMPLETELY (elevate the piece so the glue can drain through the screen) and use a knife to separate the trees from the sides of the jig and the rest should pull up easily. When it's dry you get a tree 'pad' that you can then cut the the shape you need or glue to other piece if you need it bigger. For the tree trunks I took a 1/4" inch piece of pink foam and made a stand out of more foam about an inch tall for the edges. Then I took some wax paper and aluminum foil sprayed them down with cooking spray, put one on top of the other, and then folded it in half. Next I placed the painted styrene with holes already drilled in it, on top of the aluminum foil wax paper sandwich, and on top of the foam stand. At this point I pushed the pins through, then once they were all in and at the right height, I then covered the piece in thin set super glue and let dry. I was then able to remove the styrene from the stand and cut off the protruding end of the pins and then glue on the clump foliage for the tree top. As for the why I did it this way... Sticking the pins through anything thicker than the 1/4" foam made it impossible to separate if from the foam without pulling all the pins out in the process. The aluminum foil / wax paper sandwich was necessary to contain the super glue and keep it from stick everything together. The wax paper by itself stuck to the styrene like crazy but was heavy enough to keep the glue from reaching the foam underneath. The aluminum foil on the other hand didn't stick to the styrene (as much) but did allow the glue to seep through to the foam. But the two together, with some cooking spray so the pins wouldn't grip worked out well. And the results look like this: One other thing to consider is how you can move your figs through the trees. What I do is cut out a piece of paper the same shape as the base of the forest and place that on the table and then the forest on top of it. This way if I peace needs to move through or over it, you can remove the terrain, but still have a template as to where it was and it's boundaries. You can however, just attach the clump foliage to the ground and it will be fine. Just remember a 50 foot tree which is pretty tall is still only 10mm (less than ½”) tall which is pretty darn small. I’ve also seen interdental brushes (teeth cleaning brushes) that have been used as pine trees that (once trimmed into shape) worked well. Just keep in mind the actual size of the trees that you are trying to make. http://en.wikipedia....terdental_brush Rocks: This is a pretty easy one. Rocks can be and are any size, so it’s as necessary / important that you are paying attention to what size you are making them. In addition there are lots ways to model them from craving up foam, to cork bark, to plaster and molds, and even using real rocks. However, different types of rock formations appear in different parts of the world. If you are playing in the fridge waters of the North Sea then you would see a lot of rock formations like the White Cliffs of Dover. But if you are playing in sultry Coral Sea, you would completely different types of rock formation and coast lines. If you do some research on your area for reference pictures you can stay consistent with your work. Buildings: Here is where things can get a bit tricky. Buildings can be just about any size or shape, however there are a few things that you want to keep in mind. The average height of a floor is 8 – 10 feet which works out to 2mm to 2.5mm. In addition, roofs on the average tend to be around 6 feet height from the peak of the roof to the roof line, which is 1.5mm. (Although roofs can be much higher with steeper slopes it’s a style choice) So in a nut shell you are looking at making single story buildings that are about 4mm. But wait there’s more… Also you need to consider doors and windows. One of the things that you can do, is just leave them off and have your buildings be blocks with roofs so to say. There is nothing wrong with this approach but if your prefer detail I suggest a couple of ways. You can either make decals (Testors) or print on regular paper and glue that to your buildings, or use very small pieces of plastic for doors and windows which will give the piece some depth. Regardless, for a scale door you’re looking at 1mm wide by 1.5mm tall, and windows in the same range (you could do squares or rectangles). Here’s the good news. Making building can be some easier by using 1/8” * ¼” balsa or basswood, that should be available at the local craft or hobby store. 1/8” is just a touch under 3mm so it’s close enough for a single story building, and ¼” is just touch over 6mm so it works for a two story building. But what about the roofs you ask? You can do it the easy way and find some triangular balsa and just attach it, or modify it a bit with carving or sanding. Or you make your own roofs. Roof Tutorial: You can make Japanese style roofs by stacking pieces of decreasing size cardboard on top of each other, filing in the slope with spackle, and then use wire for the roof lines. So they started out like this: (the material is card board, and you glue them one on top of the other) and ended up like this: (that's wire for the roof lines, and spackle that has been shaped and sanded) The problem here is the time required to do this. From the cutting to the gluing, plus the shaping it took well over an hour per roof. So I simplified the process and made a mold. This process can be used to make any style that you would like. Also for those of you who are handy with GreenStuff you could sculpt your roofs and then make your mold. For how-to's on mold making and products check out http://www.alumilite.com CONTINUED IN PART 2
  4. CONTINUED FROM PART 1 (Had to do a Part 2 because of picture limitations, and I know how much you guys like pictures.) So how’s it all look? Well here is a rice farming village that I did where I did no detail on the houses: Here is where I tried some decals for barracks (this would have worked out better if I would have cut my buildings more accurately) but you get the idea. And here are some 2 story warehouses where I used very small strips and angels of styrene with aluminum foil paper. You can get styrene strips bit and pieces from 2 places: www.evergreenscalemodels.com and www.plastruct.com they are also usually available in hobby stores. The aluminum foil sheet I found at Hobby Lobby and is made by www.ksmetals.com, and here are the Testor decals http://www.testors.c...Clear_%26_White Roads and Bridges: This is another tricky one. The problem here is the actual size of the DW land figs. The tanks, as you probably know are on a 20mm base which is 80 feet. The minimum width of a lane in the US is 12 feet, so basically that equates out to a 6 lane highway to allow the piece to fit on it, which is pretty darn big. But remember the point of DW is to be epic! So who might you model this? Personally I decided on going with 1 inch wide roads to allow the tanks to fit and made road markings out of the Testor decals. This is one of those items that you have to decide between play ability and looks. I went with playability. So what about the medium and large land units? I leave that up to you, but with a few things to consider. One thing that I’ve seen done that really helps with the land pieces and scale is people removing the bases of the medium and large figs. Also I don’t think there would be ‘roads’ for war machines that big, they would probably just go where they need, through / over whatever was in their way. As far as bridges go, yeah, some specialized bridges would probably need to me made to get those bad boys across water, so I’ll leave that up to your imagination Airstrips: Pretty much the same situation as roads playability v.s. size. You can make your airstrips 1/4" - 2" if you want they are examples of those that would scale up in real life so again, it's up to you. Again, I went with playability. What not to do: In this scale, unless you have access to laser engraving or a 3D printer, you really should stay away from trying to make bricks and rivets. But, but, bricks and rivets are cool and very Steampunk?!? Yes I know but at this scale you are trying to make something that should be fractions of millimeters in size, and unless you have the above mentioned tools you probably aren’t going to be able to pull it off. However… This brings us to another but very important part of making scale terrain. How does the piece look at table top level? Yes when you are working on a piece of terrain and holding it a few inches from your face you can see a lot. But when you are playing, you won’t have your nose in the terrain on the table (at least I would think not). The general rule of thumb is how does it look from 3 feet away, and at 3 feet you are not going to notice things like bricks or rivets. But… That doesn’t mean that you can’t do blocks or some large rivets (.5mm – 1mm) that would be holding together some epic structure (remember epic is the idea behind the game) but remember even these block and rivets will be small. Think about it, a 4 foot diameter for the head of a rivet is huge, and you don’t build with 8 foot blocks of concrete which would be only 2mm. Well this is great and all, but it seems like way too much work. Can’t I just buy some stuff and paint it? Sure you can and what you get is up to you, however. Two and Three millimeter terrain is NOT 1:1200 scale, does it look ok? That’s up to you but if you get that stuff and later decide that you want to make some 1:1200 stuff they probably won’t look right next to each other. So where can you find 1:1200? Well Spartan Games of course silly! They have terrain pieces that are the proper scale and look great. But you want more than that? Well you do have a few places that you can check out. Here is Rod Langton’s link for 1:1200 buildings http://www.rodlangto...eonic/frame.htm and www.microformmodels.com has some 1:1200 stuff. If anyone has any other links that are actually 1:1200 scale please feel free to post them. My brain hurts from reading all this, aren’t you done yet? Almost. If you want to learn more about scale and how the different scales relate to each other (i.e. Model train scale to 25mm scale) then check out this Wiki article: www.en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scale_model If you would like to see more of my stuff I’ve posted more pics in the DW gallery, and if you want to see more on how they were made you can check out my thread over at TerraGenesis http://terragenesis....opic.php?t=7139 Any questions let me know, and happy terrain building!
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