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    • May 4th 2018 Q&A: Blog & Video
      For those who didn't catch our latest Live Q&A, we wanted to make sure you had the opportunity to watch (and read) all about it directly from us here at Warcradle Studios.

      Enjoy our latest update about Dystopian Wars, Wild West Exodus, Armoured Clash, Firestorm Armada et al. As well as our announcement about Warcradle Classics!

      Watch the video here:


      Alternatively, head over to our blog to get a quick overview or to read the full blog, including all images from the Live Q&A!
      • 2 replies
    • May Pre-Orders: The Wayward Eight & Hex Beasts
      Let's take a look at the pre-orders for Wild West Exodus - due for release on May 31st - in time for the first day of UK Games Expo where those attending can purchase these new releases from the Warcradle Studios stand.

      The time has finally arrived, The Wayward Eight sets are now available to pre-order!

       
      • 2 replies
    • APRIL PRE-ORDERS: RED OAK BANK & UNION BASE TOPPERS!
      With the end of the month drawing near, it's time to reveal the next set of releases for Wild West Exodus!
      • 0 replies
    • Warlord Games Distribution Announcement
      Warcradle Studios are very happy to announce that we have further expanded our global distribution range with the addition of Warlord Games to our ever-growing trade catalogue. Warlord Games are in good company alongside fantastic companies such as The Army Painter, Knight Models, Wyrd Miniatures, and Firelock Games.
      • 0 replies
    • Paintin' the Town (insert colour)
      Here's a quick step by step on how I painted the awesome new Wild West Exodus terrain!

      To kick off, I undercoated the model black. No photo here (who needs a photo of a black building, after all).

      STEP ONE


      Build up 3D effects with grey.

      I use an airbrush but you can get very similar effects using a spray can. If you're using a brush, get a big ol' one inch round and stipple on the paint in thin layers.

      STEP TWO


      To increase the 3D effects, once again, I go in with white. 

      STEP THREE


      Glaze the entire model with a Sepia Wash (approximately 7 parts water to 1 part paint).

      I repeat this three times for a deep colour shift. I am still using the airbrush here but, if you do not have access to one, you can purchase weathering sprays which achieve a similar effect or go in with that big ol' brush - just don't let the glaze pool up.

      STEP 4


      Grab a decent sized brush and pick out individual planks with a selection of different brown washes.

      For this model, I used a red-brown, yellow-brown, dark brown and black brown. I tend to make my own washes from P3 paint but there are loads of great alternatives out there. Once again, don't let the wash pool up.

      STEP 5


      Pick out the metallic areas. Take your time as it's very difficult to clean off slips. All metallic areas were painted in P3 Pig Iron. 

      The Brass areas were painted in P3 Brass Balls. 

      YOU'RE ALL FINISHED


       



            

            

            

       

      These should look great on the table top for now! 

       

      I'll be looking at how to take things to the next level with weathering and detailing next time.

      Until then - happy paintin'!

      You can find all of the Red Oak terrain on our online store here, or from your regular FLGS or online stockist!

       

               

       

       

      View the full article

       
      • 0 replies

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    • Well... on the first point, at least until fixed arc weapons go away, this straight up breaks a good number of factions' weapon loadouts. This seems like it just changes the game's pacing, I'm not sure what extra tactical options you would have with this. Retreating always has been smart, its just that you don't typically move backwards to retreat, you move to cover and spool FSD, as is baiting a ship with low movement or a fixed weapon to move a certain way so another squad can line up rear shots or avoid damage. The difference is that you take hits in the process, which isn't a bad thing- it might be if the game were scored entirely on damage dealt, but again you can escape ships and chase objectives and do all sorts of things to change the relative value of just slugging it out. This is pretty much where I'm going with that. The game only really devolves into a slugfest with certain factions (Ba'Kash kind of have to go for the throat, for one, but that's their thing) and at certain levels of play combined with certain ship types (patrol fleets with Battleship on Battleship is kind of awful, I would not mind seeing restrictions on that... Also Dreads and Stations at like 900. Seriously, bro, that's your list?) I can't imagine playing without some form of Battlelog equivalent, partially because it does fix some of your concerns about not retreating or tactically attempting to make trades.   I don't really have comment on two and three, I'm used to using slow ships that need to be up close with my Relth against fast ships that don't need to be as close. I like the differences in movement, just some of the closer-range factions right now are kind of also slower, and so Aquans and other factions that combine beams and loose arcs  with mobility are kind of nuts. I wouldn't mind the sliding scale of movement being tightened, though- in a lot of cases its like... large ships move 6-7", mediums move 8-10", and then smalls move 10-14", its kind of a huge jump and there isn't really a smooth scaling up. The fact that DtM has such a relatively large impact on the big boys kind of reflects what I mean. If we moved to 5-6, 7-8, and 9-11 being the trend that'd be cool, but games might have to go longer in turns since BBs and above already have trouble getting across the board.   For point 4, I have 2 points to make. Keeping statblocks similar across sizes and such is... When you say inflated values, its really not inflating the value per se, so much as more literally representing the impacts of the interactions of the rules. It's the difference between showing somethings relative defensive value in the statistic as opposed to implying it- if there's a way of making it easy to read AND tightening the stat spread in this way, cool, but otherwise I'd rather have the more literal version, you know? And point two- more spread is not really better or worse, but it doesn't really support being tactical if your decision-making has less consistent results. I'm also not really sure what you're trying to say with the primary, secondary, tertiary thing.  How are we defining heavy? Does this need to be in addition to the rules behind things like Beams or Kinetic? Could we write this up in a way that the rule is easier to understand without needing to look it up each time (ie., there are trends in the way the targeting chart works)? Could we use simple hit modifiers instead of changing how the rolls work (again for the sake of ease of understanding)?

      How would you feel about this chart? It follows an easy to understand rule- you get a bonus against your ideal target size, and that modifier gets 1 point worse each step away from the ideal target you go. You could just as easily remove the +1s, and go to a sliding scale of no penalty, -1, -2.

       
    • As you say, you can play with one set of Action cards and one set of Adventure cards. With the action cards you can split them randomly between the two players or you could remove the 5 point card and one of the 2 point cards and give each player identical half decks. I think the easiest way to do it would be for one player to have even numbers and the other odd numbers (going by the card number at the top left). The same with the Adventure cards; either split at random or divided into two more or less  identical half decks. It also occurs to me you could tailor the Adventure deck by selecting certain cards for one side, to reflect the nature of the force or the scenario - though I'm not sure how that would work out! As Stuart says you can do what you like when you are playing a casual game with friends. The Red Oak box has everything you need to do that (except the fortune chips!). Although like you I have bought a second set of decks - it saves sorting out the cards!  
    • Err... yes. In fact, it would be extremely hard to win. If you want to share an Action and Adventure deck as a taster for the game (after all that's what the set is designed for) just shuffle both decks and evenly split them. It isn't right for competitive play, but for a knock around with a small force between friends its more than sufficient. 
    • missing this part would explain why in my first game I always drew lower than my opponent! lol
    • No problem, I guessed that's what you meant. The Action cards are split into two piles so they fit neatly in the box (the Adventure cards are twice their size). Combine them and you'll find that they give you the 48 cards you need for the Action deck. You can even count the Action Point values on them to be sure (we explain that too in the rulebook).   From page 17 of your rulebook - top left corner:
    • yes! I did mean action deck!   
    • They aren't sold with two initiative decks. There's no such thing as an initiative deck. Do you mean the Action deck? 
    • Thanks again for the fast replies! you guys are great! It does beg the question though, Is there a reason that based  on this, why adventure decks are sold with 2 initiative decks? This results in players having 2x as many initiative decks as needed unless im missing something?
    • Each player should have their own Action and Adventure decks. There's only one rulebook in the box too... 
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