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      With the end of the month drawing near, it's time to reveal the next set of releases for Wild West Exodus!
      • 0 replies
    • Warlord Games Distribution Announcement
      Warcradle Studios are very happy to announce that we have further expanded our global distribution range with the addition of Warlord Games to our ever-growing trade catalogue. Warlord Games are in good company alongside fantastic companies such as The Army Painter, Knight Models, Wyrd Miniatures, and Firelock Games.
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    • Paintin' the Town (insert colour)
      Here's a quick step by step on how I painted the awesome new Wild West Exodus terrain!

      To kick off, I undercoated the model black. No photo here (who needs a photo of a black building, after all).

      STEP ONE

      Build up 3D effects with grey.

      I use an airbrush but you can get very similar effects using a spray can. If you're using a brush, get a big ol' one inch round and stipple on the paint in thin layers.

      STEP TWO

      To increase the 3D effects, once again, I go in with white. 


      Glaze the entire model with a Sepia Wash (approximately 7 parts water to 1 part paint).

      I repeat this three times for a deep colour shift. I am still using the airbrush here but, if you do not have access to one, you can purchase weathering sprays which achieve a similar effect or go in with that big ol' brush - just don't let the glaze pool up.

      STEP 4

      Grab a decent sized brush and pick out individual planks with a selection of different brown washes.

      For this model, I used a red-brown, yellow-brown, dark brown and black brown. I tend to make my own washes from P3 paint but there are loads of great alternatives out there. Once again, don't let the wash pool up.

      STEP 5

      Pick out the metallic areas. Take your time as it's very difficult to clean off slips. All metallic areas were painted in P3 Pig Iron. 

      The Brass areas were painted in P3 Brass Balls. 







      These should look great on the table top for now! 


      I'll be looking at how to take things to the next level with weathering and detailing next time.

      Until then - happy paintin'!

      You can find all of the Red Oak terrain on our online store here, or from your regular FLGS or online stockist!





      View the full article

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    • Introducing Nakano Gozen
      What's this? Salute 2018 is just around the corner so it's time to announce something very special indeed... Let's give a big welcome to Nakano Gozen - Emissary of the Blazing Sun!
      • 11 replies
    • Salute Pre-Orders: The Deadly Seven
      We are very excited to announce that Earle Shepherd's mercenary Outlaw gang is now available for pre-order, with a release date of April 14th. If you're after a posse who will work for the highest bidder (who are we to judge?) this highly anticipated posse is most definitely for you!
      • 2 replies


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    • You could have just one ship, but with hard points to create the different effects.  You could make it to where it can add its PD to any friendly ships in range.
    • Mark 3 could be an EWAR boat, losing the torpedo fore and gaining a cyberwarfare weapon instead, as well as the Target Resolution MAR (clunky but actually handy) Honestly I just want to see these available as Kurak Alliance Escorts. What a dream accompaniment for just about anything 
    • I had an idea involving our beloved Aegis cruiser.  What if there were different Marks that gave different benefits to your battle group but you could only take one version in the entire squadron. Mark 1:  Shield Cruiser, basically how it works now. Mark 2:  ECM Cruiser, ships within 8" of an Aegis Mark 2 would get to roll X defense dice against Cyber Warfare attacks and an additional die against torpedoes. Mark 3:  -place holder-  (I need to think of something suitable for this) Thoughts?
    • The other 'Armada' game has a boiled down rule set which one of their forum users turned into a quick play game.  The stats are the same, point levels are much lower and you're not allowed to have Admirals.  I'd have to pull it up to be sure but I don't think it plays the full six turns a regular game is suppose to run.  Plus the board size is like half the size, 3x3 instead of 3x6 (much like x-wing).
    • @Xireon Did you try Alphaspel?  I ask b/c I see the Xelocians are out of stock now and I was curious how it went for you.
    • I'll have to check them out, thanks guys!
    • Lets us say @Frans that they did make FSA like you so desire. Hard science and all. Would it even still be FSA at that point?
    • Yeah, 2 versions of a game never really fly.  One always takes precedent and leaves the other by the way side.  The closest you should get to it would be how 40K handles the regular game, Kill Team, and Apocalypse.  The big differences are what is allowed and Kill Team trades unit cohesion for Sergeant auras.  The base rules for the models really don't change, it's more about handling the different quantities of models and the scenarios associated with them. That was my biggest let down with Task Force.  The ships had different stats when going between the two systems, even sometimes having completely different weapon sets.  This disconnect does not help the game progress properly.
    • Few thoughts to add: 1) Before you assemble you will first want to clean off the mould lines on the model. These lines are where the two halves the mould meet when its being cast. Depending on the material, the mould and also the age of the mould the lines can be quite distinct or very to nearly impossible to see (generally the newer the mould the less).  You can file them with a simple small hobby file; you can scrape them either with a mould line remover or a scalpel blade. My personal choice is a scalpel blade where one scrapes very slowly and gently to remove the line (I prefer files on metal). Mould line removers work well and tend to "catch" a little less than a blade will (since they are not sharp). 2) Plastics "tend to" not have problems with gaps, though a bit of GreenStuff can be good to have to hand incase there is a minor gap that requires filling.  3) As these are plastic they shouldn't require washing. Washing tends to be more a required step for resin or metal models where warm soapy water and an old toothbrush are used to clean off the mould release agents (if not done it can mess up glue and paint). Plastics typically don't require this. 4) Undercoating is typically done with white undercoat spray. White being easier to paint onto; some very dark paint schemes can work better with black; or those that are mostly metallics; however if in doubt white is best.  5) Your paint and basing approach sounds sensible; though if you want to detail I would still put the painting all before working on the base (as you have done above). 
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